Jacques Lassaigne is 4.7 hectares of vineyards in the chardonnay heavens of Montgueux. Recent research has suggested that these vineyards are on the very hill where the battle of the Catalaunian Plains took place where Aetius and Theodoric defeated Attila the Hun. The hills face southeast to drink up the day’s sun. This is in the northernmost reaches of Aube, in the Cote des bars. Montgueux’s terroir is almost identical to le Mesnil’s further north, sharing the same long vein of limestone, but the hills of Montgueux are warmer, the grapes never having trouble reaching ripeness. Jacques son, Emmanuel Lassaigne, runs the winery now and was one of the first growers to embrace regenerative organic farming in the region, and the first to vinify his Champagnes from individual parcels. All fermentations are carried out with indigenous yeast and minimal sulfur is added just at bottling. Disgorgement is still carried out by hand. Lassaigne is famous for experimental cuvées which he produces each growing season, many of which don’t come to full fruition for as long as 10 years. His neighbors now look on his hard-won success with respect, but his boldness, now seen as inspirational, was at first seen as baffling.

This wine comes from 40-year-old chardonnay vines in the Le Cotet parcel of clay and chalk. The grapes are allowed to reach full ripeness and they are destemmed and gently pressed. Complete malolactic fermentation takes place before the wine ages in new and old barrels for 12 to 24 months depending on the vintage. The fresh wine is blended with wine held in Lassaigne’s solera of perpetual reserve before aging in bottle for 1 to 5 years on the lees. The remarkable thing about this cuvée is that much of the reserve wine was allowed to go through secondary fermentation in bottle before being disgorged and blended with the current vintage. This adds layers of complexity to the final product that is rare for NV Champagne. This wine receives an extra brut dosage. Encountering the wine is like squeezing lime juice onto a rock in bright sunlight, the wine is energetic and fine with a drive and center to it that exhilarates. There is a rich nuttiness and an incredible pastry from the many layers of fermentation. The wine glitters like light on water.