Martha and Daniel Gantenbein started making wine in the village of Fläsch, in the Bündner Herrschaft of eastern Switzerland, in 1982. They were autodidacts who decided early that the only way to learn was to apprentice themselves to the best, planting Burgundian clones in their vineyards and rebuilding their cellar around gravity flow so the fruit would never have to be pumped. Over four decades they have become arguably the most coveted address in Switzerland, producing one of the great pinots outside Burgundy from a tiny estate of roughly six hectares. Production sits at around 1,200 cases of pinot noir a year. The wines are sold worldwide through a small network of merchants — almost nothing reaches the open market.
The chardonnay comes from roughly 2.5 acres on the same schist and limestone, where south-facing slopes catch full sun and warm Föhn winds fall from the Alps. Wide diurnal swings between hot days and cold nights give slow, even ripening and lift the fruit's aromatics, and yields are held severely low. The grapes are hand-harvested and pressed as whole clusters, then fermented and aged in French oak barriques built from wood air-dried for three years. The wine goes through malolactic in barrique, rests twelve to fourteen months on its lees, and is bottled without fining or filtration. Production is around 200 cases.
The 2024 is luminous and precise: white peach, quince, Meyer lemon, green apple, and linden blossom, framed by struck flint and crushed limestone. The palate is taut yet creamy from its time in barrel, with saline drive, bright acidity, and a long, smoky-mineral finish.