Domaine Fontchêne sits at the foot of the Alpilles in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where René Milan took over the property in 2013. Milan grew up in a winemaking family: his father is a vigneron, his uncle Henri Milan a well-known Saint-Rémy producer, and an early visit to the biodynamic Château Romanin set the direction for his own estate. He converted to biodynamics in 2014 after a side-by-side trial against organic farming on a two-hectare plot, and the difference in vine vigor and biodiversity convinced him to commit fully. The vineyards are worked by hand, with gentle pruning in the Simonit & Sirch style, lunar-calendar-guided treatments, and parcel-by-parcel vinifications.
Les Antiques is named for the Roman ruins at Glanum, a short walk from the cellar. The white is a blend of grenache blanc, clairette, marsanne, and chardonnay from the estate's coolest sites on calcareous clay-limestone soils studded with rolled pebbles. Vinification is in stainless steel to preserve aromatic precision.
The 2024 is delicate and finely tuned: pear, candied citrus peel, white flowers, and a hint of star anise on the nose, then a soft, rounded mouthfeel that sharpens into bright acidity on the finish. The finish is mineral and lightly menthol-cool.