The doorway at 9 Rue Noisot in Fixin has carried the same carved motto since 1693: Bien faire vaut mieux que dire. Doing well is better than saying so. Amélie Berthaut is the seventh generation of her family to make wine in this village. She trained as an agronomist and enologist in Bordeaux and worked harvests in Bandol, Napa, and New Zealand, and she came home with ideas. In the middle of the late, wet harvest of 2013, her father, Denis, told her that since she knew it all, she could make the wines. She was 25. Her domaine carries both her parents’ names: Berthaut for the family’s vines in Fixin, Gerbet for part of her mother’s family holdings in Vosne-Romanée, about 18 hectares in all. Her husband, Nicolas Faure, a veteran of the vineyards at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, farms them organically. In 1855, Dr. Jules Lavalle recorded that Fixin’s Clos de la Perrière sold for the same price as Chambertin; a century later the village was known for hard, rustic reds and little else. Amélie is widely credited with changing that. She ferments with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks painted her favorite red-violet, extracts with pump-overs and a few light punch-downs by foot, and never fines. Her cellar sits near 45°F in winter, so the wines finish slowly and on their own schedule.

The Berthauts have farmed in Gevrey-Chambertin since just after the Second World War, when Amélie’s grandfather Guy took on vines there to add to the family’s Fixin holdings. The 2024 village wine brings together fruit from the top and the bottom of the slope: old vines in the Combe du Dessus, high in the village below the premier cru Les Cazetiers, and parcels on the alluvial soils at the foot. The old-vine fruit went into the tank as whole clusters, about 40 percent of the blend, and the wine was aged in barrels, roughly 20 percent of them new.

Raspberry and red cherry are laced with bergamot. The palate is linear and fresh, with precise tannins and a savory, mouthwatering finish. Drink from 2028 through 2038.