The doorway at 9 Rue Noisot in Fixin has carried the same carved motto since 1693: Bien faire vaut mieux que dire. Doing well is better than saying so. Amélie Berthaut is the seventh generation of her family to make wine in this village. She trained as an agronomist and enologist in Bordeaux and worked harvests in Bandol, Napa, and New Zealand, and she came home with ideas. In the middle of the late, wet harvest of 2013, her father, Denis, told her that since she knew it all, she could make the wines. She was 25. Her domaine carries both her parents’ names: Berthaut for the family’s vines in Fixin, Gerbet for part of her mother’s family holdings in Vosne-Romanée, about 18 hectares in all. Her husband, Nicolas Faure, a veteran of the vineyards at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, farms them organically. In 1855, Dr. Jules Lavalle recorded that Fixin’s Clos de la Perrière sold for the same price as Chambertin; a century later the village was known for hard, rustic reds and little else. Amélie is widely credited with changing that. She ferments with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks painted her favorite red-violet, extracts with pump-overs and a few light punch-downs by foot, and never fines. Her cellar sits near 45°F in winter, so the wines finish slowly and on their own schedule.

This wine comes from the Gerbet side of the family. The vines grow at Concoeur, a hamlet on the plateau above Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges, in a lieu-dit called Au Defoi, where shallow clay sits over limestone. Amélie’s maternal grandfather, François Gerbet, planted the first rows in 1970, and Amélie, who lived in Vosne-Romanée as a child, now farms nearly four hectares here. The 2024 was fully destemmed and aged for under a year without new oak.

Crushed strawberry and red cherry lead on the nose, and the palate follows with sour cherry, fresh acidity, and light tannins. It takes well to a slight chill. Drink through 2030.