Benjamin Leroux is widely regarded as one of the finest vignerons of his generation in Burgundy, and the wines are legendary for their purity: each bottle he releases is snapped up by collectors around the world. He grew up in Beaune, where his parents ran a flower shop on the Place Carnot. There were no vines in the family. He enrolled at the town's lycée viticole at fifteen, and at twenty-four was handed the direction of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, where he stayed for fifteen vintages before founding his own domaine and négoce in 2007. He now vinifies close to thirty hectares running from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, eight of them his own, certified organic since 2016 and worked biodynamically. He pushes for the same degree of care in the vineyards he buys from. In a full vintage that comes to some fifty separate cuvées. "It takes more time and more energy to work these plots," he says. "It fills me with energy, too. Touching so many different terroirs. I don't feel as though I am losing my time."

The walled clos belongs to Jean-Charles Carré, who works alongside Leroux and whose family has held the 0.6-hectare parcel for generations. He farms it himself, biodynamically, and the two of them use it to test their most experimental viticulture. The vines sit above the village on southeast-facing clay-limestone studded with rock from the bedrock below, planted between 1940 and 1990, the younger material taken by massal selection from Clos des Épeneaux in Pommard. Half the fruit is destemmed, the maceration runs fifteen days on indigenous yeasts, and the wine spends twelve months aging, half in tank and half in barrel.

Red cherry and wild strawberry, violet leaf, and silky tannin that carries the finish. Drink 2027 through 2038.