Benjamin Leroux is widely regarded as one of the finest vignerons of his generation in Burgundy, and the wines are legendary for their purity: each bottle he releases is snapped up by collectors around the world. He grew up in Beaune, where his parents ran a flower shop on the Place Carnot. There were no vines in the family. He enrolled at the town's lycée viticole at fifteen, and at twenty-four was handed the direction of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, where he stayed for fifteen vintages before founding his own domaine and négoce in 2007. He now vinifies close to thirty hectares running from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, eight of them his own, certified organic since 2016 and worked biodynamically. He pushes for the same degree of care in the vineyards he buys from. In a full vintage that comes to some fifty separate cuvées. "It takes more time and more energy to work these plots," he says. "It fills me with energy, too. Touching so many different terroirs. I don't feel as though I am losing my time."

Blagny is a hamlet rather than a village, sitting in the woods above the line where Meursault meets Puligny-Montrachet, and La Pièce-sous-le-Bois is the highest 1er Cru in Meursault. Leroux's chardonnay was planted in 1953 on the upper part of the hill; the section below it is planted to pinot noir and bottled under the Blagny appellation. Whole clusters are pressed, the juice lightly settled and moved to older barrels, and fermentation runs on indigenous yeasts.

Lemon peel and greengage plum, white pepper, and a long finish of crushed stone and sea spray. Drink 2027 through 2038.