Benjamin Leroux is widely regarded as one of the finest vignerons of his generation in Burgundy, and the wines are legendary for their purity: each bottle he releases is snapped up by collectors around the world. He grew up in Beaune, where his parents ran a flower shop on the Place Carnot. There were no vines in the family. He enrolled at the town's lycée viticole at fifteen, and at twenty-four was handed the direction of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, where he stayed for fifteen vintages before founding his own domaine and négoce in 2007. He now vinifies close to thirty hectares running from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, eight of them his own, certified organic since 2016 and worked biodynamically. He pushes for the same degree of care in the vineyards he buys from. In a full vintage that comes to some fifty separate cuvées. "It takes more time and more energy to work these plots," he says. "It fills me with energy, too. Touching so many different terroirs. I don't feel as though I am losing my time."

Three hectares of pinot noir assembled from parcels across the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Santenay, Beaune, Ladoix, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Fixin, the mix shifting with what each vintage gives. The fruit is destemmed and macerated ten days, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged twelve months in used barrels before bottling without fining or filtration.

Red currant and morello cherry, a lift of violet, and velvety tannins. Drink through 2030.