Benjamin Leroux is widely regarded as one of the finest vignerons of his generation in Burgundy, and the wines are legendary for their purity: each bottle he releases is snapped up by collectors around the world. He grew up in Beaune, where his parents ran a flower shop on the Place Carnot. There were no vines in the family. He enrolled at the town's lycée viticole at fifteen, and at twenty-four was handed the direction of Domaine du Comte Armand in Pommard, where he stayed for fifteen vintages before founding his own domaine and négoce in 2007. He now vinifies close to thirty hectares running from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin, eight of them his own, certified organic since 2016 and worked biodynamically. He pushes for the same degree of care in the vineyards he buys from. In a full vintage that comes to some fifty separate cuvées. "It takes more time and more energy to work these plots," he says. "It fills me with energy, too. Touching so many different terroirs. I don't feel as though I am losing my time."

The parcels behind this chardonnay shift with the vintage, drawn mostly from Meursault lieux-dits including Les Belles Côtes, Les Millerands, and Sous la Velle. The fruit is pressed directly and settled, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged twelve months in foudre and amphora before racking to tank for a further four to six months.

White peach and lemon curd, a note of blanched almond, and a finish that turns mineral and chalky. Drink through 2031.