Elisabetta Foradori took over her family's estate in Mezzolombardo in 1984, at twenty, after the sudden death of her father, and spent the decades since reclaiming teroldego from a cooperative afterthought into a wine of consequence. Where convention favored volume over character, she went the other way, rebuilding the grape's genetic diversity through massal selection from the oldest pergola vines and converting the estate to biodynamics, begun in 2002 and certified by Demeter in 2009. That basin of alluvial sand, gravel, and dolomitic limestone, laid down where the Noce River once ran and ringed by the cliffs of the Dolomites, is now stewarded with her children Emilio, Theo, and Myrtha Zierock, across the plain and the calcareous hills above Trento. The family has expanded into cheesemaking and vegetable farming, all shaped by the same ethos.

Sgarzon, named for the local word for a vine shoot, lies 2.5 hectares further south and closer to the mountains, where sandier soil and an earlier sunset make for a cooler corner of the plain. Teroldego expresses differently here, lighter on its feet and more floral. Like Morei, it returned to single-vineyard bottling from the 2009 harvest.

The fruit ferments with indigenous yeasts and no added sulfur and spends about eight months on its skins in the same Villarrobledo tinajas, then goes to bottle without filtration. The result is the more lifted and red-fruited of the pair, with red cherry, cranberry, and wild strawberry, rose petal and blood orange, a saline snap, and gentle, supple tannins.