Elisabetta Foradori took over her family's estate in Mezzolombardo in 1984, at twenty, after the sudden death of her father, and spent the decades since reclaiming teroldego from a cooperative afterthought into a wine of consequence. Where convention favored volume over character, she went the other way, rebuilding the grape's genetic diversity through massal selection from the oldest pergola vines and converting the estate to biodynamics, begun in 2002 and certified by Demeter in 2009. That basin of alluvial sand, gravel, and dolomitic limestone, laid down where the Noce River once ran and ringed by the cliffs of the Dolomites, is now stewarded with her children Emilio, Theo, and Myrtha Zierock, across the plain and the calcareous hills above Trento. The family has expanded into cheesemaking and vegetable farming, all shaped by the same ethos.

Morei takes its name from moro, "dark," in the local dialect. The 2.5-hectare vineyard sits toward the middle of the Campo Rotaliano on stony, pebble-strewn alluvium that holds the vines' vigor in check, concentrating the fruit. Foradori returned to bottling Morei on its own from the 2009 harvest, once biodynamic farming had brought the site into clear focus.

The fruit ferments with indigenous yeasts and no added sulfur, then spends about eight months on its skins in Spanish clay amphorae, the tinajas from Villarrobledo, and the wine goes to bottle without filtration. It is the denser and more brooding of the two amphora teroldegos, with notes of black plum and blackberry, dried sage and black peppercorn, a twist of licorice, and a base note of wet clay and iron, framed by firm but finely drawn tannins.