Maxime Cottenceau comes from a long line of growers in Buxy, the southern Côte Chalonnaise town whose wines were once favored by the monks of Cluny. For generations, though, his family sold every grape to the local cooperative. After three years working alongside Vincent Dureuil at Domaine Dureuil-Janthial in Rully, Maxime founded his own domaine in January 2018, while still in his early twenties. His parents pulled some of their best parcels out of the cooperative so he could make wine under the family name for the first time. The early years tested him: frost took half the 2019 crop and 90 percent of 2021. Even so, Wine Advocate's William Kelley was soon urging importers to “beat a path to his door.” Maxime now farms about six hectares organically, timing his work in the vineyard and cellar to the lunar calendar. Every white is made the same way, from aligoté to premier cru. Each ferments with indigenous yeasts in barrel (30 percent new) and then spends a year on its full lees with monthly stirring. He deliberately leaves about three liters of air in each barrel, because he believes the more you shield a white wine from oxygen, the more fragile it becomes. The wines then rest in stainless steel before a light filtration, bottling by gravity, and just a touch of sulfur.

La Moullière is the southernmost premier cru in Montagny. Maxime's south-facing parcel was planted by local grower Jean Vacher, and the vines average about 35 years old. A thin layer of clay covers blue and white marl. Every year the site is prone to millerandage: the clusters set small, uneven berries that give very little juice and a high ratio of skin to juice.

Maxime likens its character to Chablis, and the 2023 shows why, with lemon blossom, grapefruit pith, and crushed oyster shell over a bright, nervy frame. Enjoy through 2033