Saint-Romain is a village shaped like a sunny amphitheater, hidden behind a series of higher hills in the Côte de Beaune. Its vineyards sit between 350 and 400 meters above sea level, elevations that would have been a liability a generation ago but that now, in a warming climate, produce pinot noir with freshness and vigor. Romain Barolet-Pernot, the fourth generation of his family to work these soils, has made this altitude his calling card. Since taking full charge of the 14-hectare estate in 2017, he has pulled the family’s best fruit out of the négociant pipeline and into his own cellar. The results speak for themselves.

This rouge is drawn from estate parcels in En Poillange and En Gollot, on the southern end of the village. The vines, planted on marl and limestone with patches of clay, are between 40 and 50 years old. Romain destems completely, cold-macerates for three to four days, then ferments on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel. The wine ages 11 months, primarily in stainless steel with a smaller portion in French oak barrels.

In the warm 2023 vintage, these high-elevation pinot vines found a sweet spot: enough sunshine to reach full phenolic ripeness while retaining their brisk natural acidity. Cherry blossom, wild strawberry, red plum, and crushed stones on the nose. A lively palate, with fine-grained tannins and a crisp, elderflower-scented finish.