Olivier Bernstein did not win the future winemaker genetic lottery of being born to a Burgundian winemaking family, and his first career was in business management. He now, though, makes world-renowned wines in the most sought-after region on the planet, and owns both Grand Cru and Premiere Cru vineyards. How did he do it?
After going back to school for winemaking in Burgundy, he bought land in Roussillon at the age of 35. But, Burgundy called. In 2007, he made 14 different handshake deals with 14 different Burgundian vineyard owners in which Olivier would do all the work and they would get a guaranteed price regardless of yield. “It was a crazy bet,” he says. “If hail destroyed the crop I would lose everything but the owner would still get paid.”
The bet paid off. Not only are his wines highly sought-after, but when a few of the vineyard owners decided to sell their land, they went to Olivier first. He’s now making the wine of his dreams in the location of his dreams. His aim? To “make pure, balanced wines that combine both mouth-filling depth and magnificent delicacy.”
Champeaux is on a terrace at 340 meters at the far end of Gevrey-Chambertin. The vineyard, planted with 60-year-old vines, is halfway up the hill, with various soil compositions, including whitish marl and an alluvial stretch.
Though a mere infant in Burgundy time, this shows dizzying. An intense bouquet, with sandalwood, cherry, red currant, and cardamom on the nose, and gloriously round on the palate. Supple tannin, in conversation with bright acidity. One to treasure for years to come.
