Olivier Bernstein did not win the future winemaker genetic lottery of being born to a Burgundian winemaking family, and his first career was in business management. He now, though, makes world-renowned wines in the most sought-after region on the planet, and owns both Grand Cru and Premiere Cru vineyards. How did he do it?
After going back to school for winemaking in Burgundy, he bought land in Roussillon at the age of 35. But, Burgundy called. In 2007, he made 14 different handshake deals with 14 different Burgundian vineyard owners. The terms: Olivier would do all the work and they would get a guaranteed price regardless of yield. “It was a crazy bet,” he says. “If hail destroyed the crop I would lose everything but the owner would still get paid.”
The bet paid off. Not only are his wines highly sought-after, but when a few of the vineyard owners decided to sell their land, they went to Olivier first. He’s now making the wine of his dreams in the location of his dreams. His aim? To “make pure, balanced wines that combine both mouth-filling depth and magnificent delicacy.”
Chambertin is marked by deep alluvial and rocky soils atop limestone and clay, with fossils dotting the surface. It’s said to be one of the two greatest vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, alongside Clos de Bèze. In its youth, this wine is taut and lean, with power and potential in spades. Hints of licorice and chocolate on the palate, which will grow more pronounced with age. It’s rather thrilling to anticipate the heights this wine will achieve with patience (and proper storage).