Founded in 1880, the Georg Breuer estate has been passed down from Breuer patriarch to Breuer patriarch for generations. Over that time, it’s slowly expanded to around 30 hectares, comprising some of steepest walled vineyards in the Rheingau, with some of the best drainage. It’s nestled in what’s called the “Binger Loch”, where the Rhine abruptly changes direction from East-West, and flows back to the north.
The most recent patriarch of Georg Breur, Bernard, was not only famed for his work at the estate, but also for championing dry Rheingau Riesling, both locally where sweeter styles were more in vogue, and in global markets. He advocated for more precise classification of vineyards, using geology, wine quality, and historical precedent, and was a wealth of knowledge on German wine regions.
Bernard passed away suddenly in 2004 at the age of 57, a tragedy and a major blow for the Rheingau. His daughter Theresa, then 18 years old, took the helm and has carried on Bernard’s legacy while building her own. She’s prioritized reducing yields, and started farming organically, eventually going through the process of certification.
Some of their oldest plantings can be found in Rüdesheimer, on slopes with a 65% incline. The 2022 is a masterful expression of Rheingau Riesling, where power meets finesse in perfect harmony. This legendary vineyard, with its steep slopes and southwest-facing parcels, delivers a wine of immense concentration, precision, and elegance. In 2022, Breuer chose to omit grapes from the core south-facing parcel, favoring southwest-facing plots that achieved balance amidst a challenging vintage.
The result is nothing short of extraordinary. James Suckling (97 points) describes it as “sleek and incredibly focused,” highlighting its astonishing spectrum of aromas—from wild herbs to jackfruit. The tiny berries that struggled for ripeness lend the wine an unparalleled concentration within a lean, feather-light frame (just 11.5% alcohol). Vinous (94 points) calls it “bright, unfrilly, clean-cut,” with textured layers of hazelnut, lemon pith, and salt that create a mouthwatering, resonant finish.
Producer notes emphasize the wine’s mineral spiciness and monumental depth. Stone fruits, orange skin, and fine tannins add to its complexity, making it both immediate and enduring. Organically grown and Fair’n Green certified, this bone-dry Riesling is an ode to precision farming and thoughtful winemaking.
While approachable now for its sheer vibrancy, the 2022 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg will truly shine with patience, rewarding those who wait until at least 2025. A wine that captures the essence of its storied vineyard, it is as much an experience as it is a benchmark for the Rheingau.
