In 1998, Federico Graziani was named Italy's Best Sommelier at just 23 years old by the Italian Association of Sommeliers. A long career in high-end hospitality seemed inevitable.

Everything changed in 2008 while walking through Passopisciaro when he passed a butcher's vineyard for sale. He bought it, working with legendary oenologist Salvo Foti and the I Vigneri collective to restore the ancient vines. Today he farms 6 hectares on Etna's north and northwest slopes between 600-1200 meters elevation, working with vines between 75 and a 100+ years old. He uses only copper and sulfur treatments, indigenous yeasts, and ages in used oak for 12-14 months. Annual production is just 10,000 bottles, most of which go to Japan.

The 2022 Etna Rosso is 100% nerello mascalese from ancient vines on volcanic soils. It highlights the grape's characteristic elegance, with notes of red cherry, dried herbs, smoke, and a mineral tension that comes from growing at altitude on lava rock. The tannins are fine and silky, the acidity bright. This is Etna at its most ethereal. It’s drinking charmingly now but could stand being cellared for a decade or more.