Domaine Fontchêne sits at the foot of the Alpilles in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where René Milan took over the property in 2013. Milan grew up in a winemaking family: his father is a vigneron, his uncle Henri Milan a well-known Saint-Rémy producer, and an early visit to the biodynamic Château Romanin set the direction for his own estate. He converted to biodynamics in 2014 after a side-by-side trial against organic farming on a two-hectare plot, and the difference in vine vigor and biodiversity convinced him to commit fully. The vineyards are worked by hand, with gentle pruning in the Simonit & Sirch style, lunar-calendar-guided treatments, and parcel-by-parcel vinifications.
Les Antiques is named for the Roman ruins at Glanum, a short walk from the cellar. The red is a blend of cinsault, mourvèdre, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon from parcels on the estate's clay-limestone and rolled-pebble soils. Vinification and aging are in tank for around eighteen months, with no oak imprint, the goal being a wine of fruit clarity and freshness rather than weight.
The 2022 is fleshy but lifted: ripe black cherry, blackcurrant, cracked pepper, and a sprig of garrigue thyme, with supple tannins and a spritely saline finish.