Domaine Dujac is young by Burgundy’s standards and has been counted among the region’s great estates for nearly as long as it has existed. Jacques Seysses, the son of a biscuit manufacturer, apprenticed under Gérard Potel at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or before buying the rundown 4.5-hectare Domaine Marcel Graillet in Morey-Saint-Denis at the end of 1967 and renaming it for himself: Dujac, as in du Jacques. The first bottling, the 1969, reached restaurant tables across France through his father’s connections, and his insistence on fermenting whole clusters became the house signature at a time when almost no one else beyond the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was leaving the stems in. His son Jeremy joined in 1998, followed by Jeremy’s wife Diana Snowden Seysses, a UC Davis-trained oenologist from a Napa winemaking family, in 2001, and his brother Alec in 2003. A purchase shared with the de Montille family in 2005 brought Chambertin, Romanée-Saint-Vivant, and two Vosne-Romanée premiers crus into the fold, and the domaine now farms 15.5 hectares, seven grands crus among them, organically and with biodynamic practices since the early 2000s.

Les Beaux Monts is the premier cru directly upslope from Échezeaux, straddling Vosne-Romanée and Flagey, and Dujac’s 0.73 hectares lie between the parcels of Tremblay and Leroy, facing east-southeast on a ten-percent grade. Dujac began picking on 29 August in 2022 after a hot summer whose nights stayed cool enough to preserve acidity. It was the first vintage made in the domaine’s new cuverie, where double-jacketed stainless steel vats replaced concrete. Neal Martin and William Kelley each rated it 95, for Vinous and The Wine Advocate respectively.

Wafts of cherry and raspberry over mulberry, tea-smoked duck, cracked black pepper and clove. Deep and voluminous for the higher-altitude site, with ripe, supple tannin and an unhurried finish. Drink 2028 through 2046.