Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux has been in Vosne-Romanée since 1858. Charles Lachaux, the sixth generation of his family, has run it since 2012, alongside a separate label under his own name. He farms biodynamically, toward a single end: wine that tastes of its site and little else. The vines grow tall and untrimmed through the season, the rows are worked by horse, and pruning follows the natural flow of the sap. Fermentation proceeds with whole clusters and indigenous yeasts, maceration is brief, and pressing is vertical and gentle. With 2022, Charles retired oak from the cellar entirely, aging every wine in Clayver — the neutral sandstone vessels that breathe without contributing flavor — so that site, not cooperage, sets the character of each wine. He has said he wants Arnoux-Lachaux to stand beside Leroy, and his methods make clear that he means it.

Clos des Corvées Pagets is a small, enclosed climat in the southern reaches of Nuits-Saint-Georges, toward Premeaux, on very rocky ground; it is one of three subdivisions of the larger Aux Corvées, with Prieuré-Roch holding the lion's share of the whole. Arnoux-Lachaux farms a little over half a hectare of it, planted to some of the domaine's oldest vines. Yields here run miserly, so the bottling is tiny in most years.

This is the most mineral and tightly wound of the Nuits: black cherry and dark plum cut with cranberry, rose petal above, and a stony, almost flinty spine running underneath. The tannins are firm and finely drawn, built for the long haul; give it until 2028 at the earliest and expect it to hold well beyond 2035.