Though Cesare Bussolo’s star is rising, you may not yet have heard of him. Barolo collectors will, though, almost certainly have heard of his mentor and sometimes partner, Piemonte legend Roberto Voerzio, who Cesare has worked with since 2007.
Cesare, born and raised in La Morra and a graduate of the Alba Wine School, bought his own land in 2009 and leases some of Voerzio’s as well. He farms similarly to his mentor, with high density plantings, extremely low yields, and organic practices. His wine is produced in Roberto’s cellar, with minimal intervention.
In 2013, Cesare inherited San Bartolomeo vineyard in western La Morra, planted with 60-year-old dolcetto on sand and limestone. “I immediately found myself facing a great challenge,” he says, “because dolcetto wine isn't crossing a good moment in the world market, but I love big challenges!!!” (all exclamation points his).
In 2014, he ripped up the old dolcetto, replacing it with more dolcetto planted at a much higher density. His 2022 bottling might just convert those who have overlooked this unassuming grape. Plush violet, black cherry, and blueberry picked straight off the bush, still warm from the sun. More cranberry, stewed strawberry, and petrichor as it opens up. Unbelievably silky on the palate, with crisp acidity and pleasant tannin. It would be hard to find a more charming weeknight offering.