In a region that blends across villages, grapes, and years, Cédric Bouchard does the opposite: every bottle is one parcel, one variety, one vintage, from a few hectares in the Aube. His bottles are among the most sought-after in Champagne. Le Creux d’Enfer is a west-facing 0.9-hectare parcel in Celles-sur-Ource planted in 1981 and sheltered by forest. A blanc de noirs with no dosage, William Kelley of The Wine Advocate gave the 2021 96 points. We have a single bottle. Open it as the first glass of the night to treat those who arrived early enough to help.