From the steep slopes of extinct volcanoes around Straden, Christoph Neumeister coaxes marvelous wines from punishing terrain. Close to the border of Austria, Slovenia, and Hungary, the soils here are incredibly diverse—volcanic basalt, sandy loam, chalky limestone, and sandstone give a kaleidoscopic complexity to the grapes. The slopes often exceed a 65% gradient, and the climate can be mercurial. Warm breezes from the Adriatic clash with the frigid winds from the Alps and the rainfall is often tempestuous with frequent hail. The summer regularly sees diurnal shifts of almost 40 degrees Fahrenheit which keeps the growing season quite long. These difficult growing conditions attract winemakers who are deeply committed to the region. Neumeister is one of twelve wineries in the Steiermark Organization (STK), a collective of growers who work to preserve landscape, prioritize biodiversity, and promote an integrated and sustainable approach to farming. The STK even has its own cru evaluation system. Christoph took over from his father Albert in 2006 when he was just 25 years old. He obtained organic certification for the vineyards in 2013 though the vines had been farmed organically since the 1990s. Farming and harvest is carried out manually because of the steep inclines. Yields are incredibly low. The grapes are handpicked and treated as gently and naturally as possible. The wines ferment spontaneously and are moved solely by gravity from harvest to bottling. The wines age in well-used oak which helps bring incredible textural minerality to its splendor.

Neumeister’s Alte Reben Sauvignon Blanc is his most distinctive wine. The grape was brought to the region in the early 1800s by Archduke Johann of the House of Habsburg-Lorraine, and on the slopes of the volcano over Straden, the grape finds a riveting and unique expression. Christoph’s yields are incredibly low, and the broad diurnal shifts result in a wine of luscious acidity combined with a breadth and texture rare in sauvignon blanc. Alte Reben comes from the two oldest parcels of sauvignon blanc in Styria: an east-facing parcel planted in 1937, “Stradener Himmelsburg.” This vineyard is at 360 meters in shallow, limestone soil. The other parcel is an east-facing planting form 1967 in 1er cru Klausen’s calcareous sandstone. After picking and fermentation the wine ages three years in used 500 liter barrels. The complexity of texture and aromatics is staggering. The nose of Alte Reben smells like the stones around a waterfall, lemon peel, a breeze of meadow flowers. The palate has a delicate herbal curtain strung across a lattice of glistening yellow lemon and grapefruit and roasted marcona almonds. There is a deep center of stoniness to the wine and the texture combined with the light of the acid is a gorgeous experience.