Vienna, or Wien (the w is pronounced as a v in German) the locals call it, is one of the only cities in the world that can boast the presence of thriving wineries and vineyards right in the heart of the city. It is also the only city that is also an entire wine region unto itself. In Vienna, the city’s wineries are prolific producers, providing the city with its beloved supply of gemischter satz, a field blend of Austria’s delicate white grapes that was truly the first farm-to-table wine.

Austrian winemakers combined the best of the harvest to create a wild wine that still constitutes a third of all Viennese wine produced. Fritz Wieninger comes from a family of winemakers who have been making wine for over 100 years. Fritz’s mother was one of the first women to graduate in oenology from Klosterneuberg, and her wine was what was served in his family’s heurige. Fritz grew up in the family heurige, one of the traditional wineries-cum-cafés where Vienna’s nightlife boisterously quaff local wines and discuss everything from politics to gossip. These Austrian institutions began in Vienna, where some of the oldest and most famous still swell with a raucous nightlife that underscores the soul of Viennese culture.

Today, Fritz is the leader of the New Vienna wine movement, combining traditional methods and grapes with new ideologies. He has two wineries, both of which are certified biodynamic. Hajszan Neumann is Fritz’ natural wine project, where he can experiment as much as he likes with little to no intervention. Weingut Wieninger continues to evolve out of the family winery, with 50 ha of two of the finest sites in Vienna split by the Danube River.

The two vineyards of Weingut Wieninger are contrasting microclimates; Bisamberg is dry and sunny with light, sandy loess soil. This vineyard produces fruit that results in vertical, light wines with zip and vigor. On the other side of the river, the smaller Nussberg site has shell and limestone soils with a high clay content. The fruit here results in rich, deep wines with sultry fruit and fragrant aromas.

The 2020 Pinot Noir Grand Select is a masterclass in movement, offering a seamless balance of elegance and complexity. Its strong garnet hue, laced with ochre reflections and a brightening rim, hints at the depth within. On the nose, the bouquet is captivating, an enticing introduction to what follows.

This pinot noir is both juicy and sophisticated, with fresh red berry notes underpinned by fine tannins and a subtle mineral edge. Its structure is elegant, its finish long and layered, lingering with whispers of limestone and weathered rock.  

A wine for connoisseurs and collectors alike, this bottle is both a delicate food companion and a bottle with impressive aging potential.