This wine is a novel in a bottle. The main character, of course, is Burgundy itself, but the supporting characters are similarly heroic.

First, Raphaël Coche of Coche-Dury, a fourth-generation vigneron famous for his skillful, soulful vineyard work. “The Coche-Dury vineyards are tended like gardens,” says importer Kermit Lynch, “Every vine immaculate, no pushing weeds, even the stony topsoil raked to perfection.” Coche-Dury wines have been called “as epic as they are scarce.” To even have one of their wines in your collection is to have quite a collection indeed.

The other supporting character: Hospices de Beaune, founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor. Since the late 1800s, it’s raised money for its important work in partnership with legendary local winemakers. Docteur Peste, for whom this old vine cuvee is named, was a beloved doctor at the hospital during this time.

2020 was an excellent year in Burgundy, comparable to the legendary 1990s. Wine Advocate called Coche’s 2020s “a superb set of wines from one of Burgundy's most perfectionist, passionate producers.” Cuvée Docteur Peste specifically features notes of crushed red cherry, rose petal, porcini mushrooms, and humus-rich soil, with a kiss of cola spice. A masterpiece.