2019 Georges Remy, Les Muits, 1er Cru, Champagne, France
Wine • Sparkling

2019 Georges Remy, Les Muits, 1er Cru, Champagne, France

We come together around the idea of saying “yes”: A small word that contains everything.

Georges Remy is the third generation of his family in Bouzy, where the Remys have grown grapes since 1829. His grandfather was the first to bottle wine under the family name in 1950; his father stepped back from production in 1989 to focus on the vines themselves. Georges trained in Avize and worked in Bordeaux, where he fell hard for red wine, before returning home to consult and farm alongside his father. In 2011, his parents gifted him a 0.15-hectare parcel of pinot noir in the lieu-dit Les Vaudayants, planted by sélection massale in 1975. That was the beginning. He added champagne to the project in 2014. Today he farms 4.7 hectares across seventeen parcels in Bouzy, Ambonnay, Louvois, and Tauxières — all certified organic since 2018, with biodynamic practices and homemade compost shared between Georges, Benoît Lahaye, and Antoine Paillard. He harvests later than almost anyone in the region, holding out for full phenolic ripeness, and vinifies and ages every cuvée in barrel. The wines are brut nature, unfined, unfiltered, and made in tiny quantities.

Les Muits is a single parcel of chardonnay in Tauxières, Premier Cru, planted in 1985 on a thinner, more chalk-driven layer of soil than Georges's holdings further south in Bouzy. The 2019 was harvested on September 19th and vinified and aged on fine lees in barrels of two, three, and four wines old. Malolactic completes naturally. Bottled at the end of July 2020, disgorged without dosage, unfined and unfiltered. 1,498 bottles and 40 magnums. The 2019 is taut and lemon-driven on the nose, with white flowers, brioche, and a curl of smoke from the barrel. The palate is tightly wound and saline, with notes of yellow apple, grapefruit pith, and crushed shell, all carried through the long finish by a chalky, almost stony grip that distinguishes Tauxières chardonnay from the more pinot-driven villages around it.

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