Frédéric Mugnier flew for an airline before coming home in 1985 to the Château de Chambolle-Musigny and its vines, and in the four decades since he has made some of the most sought-after pinot noir in Burgundy. His Bonnes Mares comes from a single 0.35-hectare strip that runs top to bottom through the vineyard’s two soils, the iron-red terres rouges and the pale, limestone terres blanches, half of it planted in the 1950s. Wine writer Allen Meadows gave the 2010 94 points and said to give it twelve to fifteen years, and it has had sixteen, long enough for black raspberry and crushed stone to deepen into forest floor and dried rose. A bottle for when the plates are full and the conversation has found its stride. One bottle available.