The Roumiers have farmed Chambolle-Musigny since 1924. Christophe, the third generation, made the name synonymous with the village. Les Cras means rocky hillside: 1.76 hectares of chalky marl studded with fossil shells just above the village, planted in 1961. The cool, classical 2002 has taken two decades to soften from raspberry and iron into dried cranberry, orange peel, and crushed chalk. 2002 is a vintage Burgundy lovers wish they had bought more of, and this bottle shows why, with the salt of Les Cras keeping it bright through the richest part of the meal.