When Henry-Frédéric Roch established Domaine Prieuré Roch in 1988, he brought with him the exacting standards of DRC and a philosophy he describes not as "making" wine but as managing a natural process—listening to and stewarding the vines through the seasons. The result is a collection of wines so vibrant and refined that they've become emblematic of what's possible when tradition and minimal intervention are practiced with vision and humility.

In the vineyard, 2021 was challenging. From early frosts to powdery mildew to serious labor shortages, almost nothing came easily. The resulting wine, though, is a return to classic Burgundy after several scorching years, featuring lower alcohol levels and more freshness. Cellar master Yannick Champ compares it to 2013 in terms of finesse and predicted it would “surprise many who have forgotten the classical Burgundy freshness."

Clos des Varoilles shows the vintage's elegance in vivid tones. Expect bright red cherry, raspberry leaf, and cranberry, rather than the darker fruit of warmer years, lifted by violet and rose petal. There's an almost electricity to the palate—crackling acidity and fine-grained tannins frame precise fruit with a taut mineral intensity running through the finish. This Clos des Varoilles is built for the long haul—easily 15 to 20 years—but already shows remarkable poise.