Chartogne-Taillet is one of Champagne’s most thoughtful and site-driven grower estates, based in the village of Merfy in the Montagne de Reims. The domaine has been in the Chartogne family since 1870, but its modern identity is defined by Alexandre Chartogne, who took over in 2006 after training with Anselme Selosse. That influence shows not in imitation, but in the philosophical conviction that Champagne should speak from the ground up.

Over the past two decades, Alexandre has deepened his focus on organic farming, biodiversity, and patient, native-yeast fermentations that allow each parcel to express its own rhythm. Horses, sheep, and chickens support the work in the vines, and the cellar operates with the same restraint, using stainless steel, old barrels, concrete eggs, and amphora only when they preserve a site’s character. This careful, almost archaeological approach has placed Chartogne-Taillet among the most respected estates in the region, with a reputation for Champagnes that collectors prize for their purity, structure, and longevity.

The 2018 Hors Série brings a rare departure for Alexandre. It is 100% chardonnay from two small plots in the grand cru villages of Avize and Oger, the first time he has stepped outside his historic Merfy terroirs to work in the deep, porous chalk of the Côte des Blancs. The vines were planted between 1927 and 1986, and the native fermentation unfolds slowly, often lasting more than two months. Aging takes place in old barrels for around nine months, followed by about forty months on slats. Those who open it now will find a wine with an elegant focus and lift, while those who tuck it away will be met in time with a deeper, more layered expression.