Bodegas Toro Albalá was founded in 1922 by José María Toro Albalá in the town of Aguilar de la Frontera, in an abandoned electrical substation that still serves as the bodega's headquarters today. The family traces its winemaking roots to 1844, and the estate is now led by third-generation Antonio Sánchez. Toro Albalá is renowned for its Pedro Ximénez wines, particularly the legendary vintage Don PX bottlings, but the dry wines under the Poley label (named for the Arab name of Aguilar during Moorish rule) deserve equal attention. The vineyards sit in the Moriles Altos subzone on chalky white albariza soils, and all wines are produced by the traditional criaderas and soleras method without fortification.

This Amontillado proceeds from the bodega's foundational solera, established in 1922. It is 100% pedro ximénez, unfortified, with a natural alcohol of 21%. The wine begins its life as a Fino, aging under a veil of flor for approximately ten years in 500-liter American oak casks. As the flor weakens and the wine loses its protection, a long, slow oxidative aging begins, lasting roughly twenty-five years more. “En Rama” indicates the wine is bottled unfiltered and unfined, directly from the solera.

Amber with copper tinges. On the nose, roasted hazelnut, dried fig, orange peel, baking spice, and a saline lift underneath. The palate is dry and pointed, mineral and salt-edged, finishing on bitter almond and a long thread of smoke. 95 points from James Suckling.