The Knoll family has been farming vineyards in the village of Unterloiben since the early nineteenth century. Now led by Emmerich Knoll III, the family works sixteen hectares of steep, terraced vineyards along the northern bank of the Danube, planted primarily to grüner veltliner and riesling across some of the Wachau’s most storied sites: Schütt, Loibenberg, Kellerberg, Kreutles. They ferment with native yeasts in stainless steel and large neutral oak casks, releasing nothing before it is ready. Their iconic Saint Urban label, first used in 1962, has become one of the most recognizable images in Austrian wine.

This Federspiel is a village-level grüner veltliner from multiple parcels around Unterloiben, rested in stainless steel for several months after fermentation. Federspiel is the Wachau's middle ripeness tier at 11.5% to 12.5% alcohol. These are the wines Emmerich reportedly has a particular affection for: precise, versatile, and endlessly drinkable.

The 2023 opens with ripe apricot, lemon, and white pepper, with a hint of meadow herbs on the nose. Medium-bodied and juicy, with integrated acidity and a mineral, slightly saline finish. This is a wine built for the table and a vivid introduction to what the family does at every level of the range.