Contrada Contro revives ancient vineyards high in the Sibillini Mountains, between the villages of Gualdo and Sarnano in Italy’s Marche region. Known for its rolling hills that rise from the Adriatic coast into the rugged Apennines, Marche has long been a crossroads of culture and agriculture, with a winemaking history stretching back centuries. At Contrada Contro, the focus is on restoring ungrafted vines planted above 500 meters, farmed organically and vinified with a philosophy of non-intervention. In this alpine landscape of rocky soils and cool mountain air, low yields and spontaneous fermentations are not techniques but necessities, bringing out the purity and endurance of vines that have quietly survived for generations. Each bottle is a testament to the belief that the vineyard is sovereign and that authenticity begins in the soil.

A striking single vineyard planted in 1976 at 530 meteres showcases native varieties trebbiano, santa maria, and malvasia that are rooted into soils of sand, silt, and clay that soften the limestone beneath. The grapes are gathered by hand before fermenting freely with their native yeasts. The resulting wine rests in large oak casks, untouched and unadorned, then bottled unfined and unfiltered, holding the clarity of its place. 

The 2023 vintage carries a heightened sense of depth and generosity, its fruit woven into a fabric of texture and layers. Aromas of peach, citrus blossom, and marzipan rise from the glass, with undertones of herbs, wet stone, and the cool breath of mountain air. With time, waft of hazelnut and savory spice unfurl, adding a nuanced complexity. On the palate there is both richness and precision, orchard fruit and minerality in long, measured harmony. This is a wine of rare character of which just over 100 cases were made.