Born into a family whose winemaking histories date back to the 1800s, Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche started working with their father Jean-Pierre in 2004 and soon became known for their almost fanatical commitment to quality. They have ten full-time employees farming nine hectares of land using biodynamic practices, in order to ensure maximal terroir expression. Each parcel of vines is vinified and aged separately in barrel. Even en tirage, their wine is under cork, with each bottle disgorged by hand. They keep a solera of sorts, started in 1985, which is drawn off by 2/3 each year and then replaced. It’s no surprise that they’re making some of the most coveted wines in Champagne.

This elegant rosé is sourced from 40-year-old vines in Ormes, named after the ancient Roman name for the Reims countryside. A blend of two-thirds pinot noir, supplemented with a touch of still red wine for color, and about a third chardonnay, it’s fermented with indigenous yeast in used oak, then aged under cork for three years. In the glass, notes of sour cherry, kumquat, and strawberry leaf, with a creamy texture and a persistent saline finish. Beautiful now or with five or so more years in the cellar.